SETOUCHI RETREAT by Onko Chishin

We stayed in the Forest View Semi-Open-Air Onsen Suite under the “Setouchi Retreat Aonagi 10th Anniversary Plan.” After touring Matsuyama, we chose it at my wife’s request as a base for heading to the Shimanami Kaido—and it exceeded our expectations.The building was originally designed by Tadao Ando as an art museum and guesthouse for Daio Paper (Eliere Square Matsuyama), and has been renovated and operated as a Hotel for the past 10 years. With its exceptionally luxurious museum-like design, and with artworks still displayed throughout, we were able to enjoy an extraordinary escape in a serene space with attentive service.Although nearly 30 years have passed since its completion in 1998, Ando’s signature exposed concrete has been beautifully maintained. The way the spaces are carved creates exquisite compositions of light, and you can truly feel the architect’s intent. We visited Ando’s “Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum” before coming here, but this was moving on an entirely different level.The Room layout—one Room per floor—was spacious, with a full glass wall on one side that created an open, seamless connection to the outdoors. The semi-open-air bath also includes a reclining bath area, allowing you to warm up from the core. Including the shared spaces reserved exclusively for just seven groups per day, I don’t know of another Hotel that feels this luxurious while offering such outstanding value.The private pool included as a perk was also a lavish experience; however, I found the sauna temperature too low to work up enough sweat, which was slightly disappointing.Dinner was creative Japanese cuisine from the 10th Anniversary Plan and everything was delicious, but I was especially impressed by the “steamed abalone sesame tofu” served after the main course. There are many great dishes in life, but few make you want to come back just to eat them again—this sesame tofu did. Its texture and perfect pairing with the sesame sauce made me feel it would be worth even a five-hour trip just for that one dish.Breakfast also showed careful craftsmanship in every item. My thanks to the chef.Finally, all staff were wonderful as well—it made for an excellent stay.Thank you very much.

We stayed here as the highlight of our 25th wedding anniversary trip, visiting Dogo, Roadside Station Futami, Ozu’s Garyu Sanso and a sake shop, and Uchiko-juku.Thanks to the first spring gale, the Seto Inland Sea looked almost divine; after watching the sunset, we enjoyed a swim in the pool.The chef’s signature hot-pot kaiseki was exceptional—beautifully presented spiny lobster, Shikoku specialties such as noresore, yellowtail, abalone, and more.We also savored the flavorful hot pot with its golden broth. We thoroughly enjoyed pairings not only with spirits from Japan and abroad but also with Shikoku sake.Above all, our warm conversations with the waiter were a true delight.The next day we also visited the Tobe-yaki pottery fair; my wife was thrilled to buy some tableware. We met many wonderful people and made unforgettable memories.Thank you from the bottom of our hearts.