Honke Bankyu - Heike Legend Kazurabashi Inn

I stayed at this Accommodation for the first time in 30 years. Just off the road stands an old wooden gate like a fortress, and as you walk through the entrance toward this classic Accommodation, a staff member greeted me with, “We’ve been expecting you, Mr./Ms. ○○.” Although I had shared my arrival time in advance, being welcomed by name immediately drew me into an extraordinary world.In the old folk-house style lobby, rattan sofas that support even your head are set facing the icicles across the river. The moment you sit down, you feel gently embraced. With carefully prepared coffee or tea in hand, I spent unhurried time in the warm heating that seems to wrap around the entire building—then was called to the front desk to check in. On the way to my Room, a drum sounded to announce, “We are escorting our guest.”The riverside Japanese-style Room is not overly large yet more than spacious enough, and it carries you from everyday bustle into Yunishikawa’s world. The practical layout feels truly comfortable.At dinner, a separate irori hearth welcomed us. There were grilled dishes on skewers and salt-grilled ayu sweetfish; chicken with sansho miso on a ladle-shaped board was cooked just right—perfect with warm sake. The meal featured many thoughtfully prepared mountain specialties that fully satisfied without being excessive in volume, which I appreciated. Enjoying conversation amid dreamy warm lighting and furnishings at dinner before I knew it two hours had passed.The Onsen is sulfur-based but with a gentle scent that isn’t overpowering. It’s slightly hot and leaves your skin feeling refreshed and smooth—my slightly dry skin felt soothed after just one soak. It was so inviting that over two nights I ended up bathing in the Onsen ten times.For evening meals there are two types of dining spaces in an annex across a suspension bridge over the river. Breakfast is served in the main building with three types of dining areas; private rooms were available for both dinner and breakfast. The attentive care from the attendants made everything taste even better. One small disappointment was that the drink corner closes fairly early—and there wasn’t an izakaya-like place inside where you could relax with drinks late into the evening. Still, making up for it was easy thanks to the Onsen.Step outside this Accommodation and you’ll find streetscapes befitting a hidden village of the Heike clan; sightseeing spots are scattered at just-right distances for walking strolls. Every shop in town offered warm human connection, so there was never a dull moment.It’s an Accommodation I definitely want to return to again.

It was a very memorable accommodation, so I visited again after 20 years. The road from Kawaji has been completely improved, making access much easier. The meal in front of the irori was abundant and incredibly delicious. The room with a semi-open-air bath was very comfortable and satisfying. I hope to visit again someday.