Kikunoyu

When I visited Zenkoji Temple to give thanks for completing the Saigoku Pilgrimage, I stayed at the nostalgic Asama Onsen, which I had last visited more than 40 years ago. I chose Kikunoyu, a historic Ryokan built in the traditional honmune-zukuri style. From parking on arrival, the staff kindly guided me into the building. The massive zelkova main pillar and heavy beams were breathtaking, and I was deeply moved by how magnificent the building was—exactly as rumored. Then to my Room: it was spotless, not a speck of dust anywhere. It felt like everything had been checked again and again. You can truly sense their high standards of hospitality and thoughtful attention to detail. After refreshing myself in the Onsen—known as a “beauty bath”—I headed to dinner. Hot dishes were served hot, and each course arrived at just the right time to match our pace. Using seasonal local ingredients, every dish in this kaiseki meal was carefully prepared with great effort, reflecting the high level of skill of the head chef and kitchen team. After dinner, I enjoyed another soak in the large public bath after it switched over for men and women, then went to bed. The next morning, I enjoyed another elaborate and delicious breakfast. At check-out, I had a pleasant conversation with the elegant proprietress (okami), who shared many stories with me. She then saw me off until my car disappeared from view. Kikunoyu truly lived up to its reputation as a long-established Ryokan—I left completely satisfied in both body and mind. Thank you so much for adding something special to my trip to Nagano.

This was our second stay. We were very satisfied with the meals—carefully prepared dishes made with quality ingredients and beautifully presented on lovely tableware.The water temperature at Asama Onsen was also just right.Most of the other guests seemed to be couples around our age, so we were able to spend time in a very quiet setting, which made us extremely happy.