The Retreat Accommodation Yumenagashi

It was a truly thoughtful Accommodation.

I visited with a friend for our once-a-year, slightly indulgent girls’ trip. The Accommodation seems to be located right in front of a local bus stop, but part of the national highway on the bus route was closed due to a landslide and buses were taking a detour, meaning extra travel time from both Takayama and Matsumoto. So my friend drove from Nagoya instead. We took a short break at the Hirugano Kogen Service Area to enjoy the magnificent scenery, and arrived comfortably in just under three hours with no traffic. There were spots with some snow remaining along the sides of the road, but there was no snow on the road itself. Even so, it gets cold in the mornings and evenings, so winter tires are recommended for peace of mind in case of icy conditions. The building is kept impeccably clean and is wrapped in a pleasant quietness and the lovely aroma of charcoal from the irori hearth—while our Room had no odor at all. We were welcomed into a spacious Room with delicious homemade pound cake as part of their hospitality, and as we chatted comfortably, time flew by. The cuisine was truly outstanding—bringing out the full flavor of each ingredient while presenting combinations and plating unlike anything I’d experienced before, far exceeding its reputation and my expectations. As richer foods have started to leave me feeling heavy or unwell the next day over recent years, I especially appreciated how refined every dish was; it felt like food I could happily enjoy even in my 80s without any heaviness. The chef’s and staff’s genuine desire for guests to enjoy themselves came through clearly. Perhaps because of the high altitude, alcohol seemed to hit more quickly—and since I also wanted to bathe—I unfortunately didn’t get around to trying the local craft beer or sake provided in our Room. Still, stepping outside after the sauna into crisp mountain air with grand peaks right before us felt incredible. The private hot Onsen bath attached to our Room—hotter than expected—with jazz at night and birdsong in the morning was pure luxury: an unbelievably relaxing stay beyond what I could imagine. I’d love to return to experience another season’s cuisine as well—I’ve become a true fan. Thank you very much for your wonderful hospitality.